Listening In

Thursday, June 24, 2010

The last of the irises


24th June 2010



There wasn't time to go see this year's irises and the season is pretty much over.

But I caught a few stragglers. And at Heian Jingu, there's always something to enjoy no matter what time of the year.

But on to the irises.














And a confused orchid:







Branch tunnel.





Wild tissue paper.











Pond does Monet impression.





A bridge where you can...
















...sit and feed the ducks. And koi longer than my arm.




Light bouncing off the water onto the roof of the bridge.















The other side of the bridge.





For those of you who like gilt with your stairs.






A basin in bloom.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

To err is human; to create, diverge


21st June 2010


For those of you who didn't catch it in The Straits Times.


...


It’s like my eyes and I don’t talk any more.

Headline from an article in The Straits Times: ‘More teacher assassins for classrooms’.

Assistants, not assassins. Assistants.

For more than two years, my eyes haven’t been reading the way they should. They swop letters, drop them and turn assistants into assassins.

Line from an ST article: ‘China hopes to hit its key targets of creating nine million turban jobs and…’

Urban, not turban. Urban. My eyes also add letters that have no business being there. And all this misreading doesn’t just happen with the papers.

Line from a writer’s blog: ‘on Saturday I did an enjoyable panel on graphic towels with Nicki Greenberg and Queenie Chan’.

Novels, not towels. Neil Gaiman is known for his graphic novels. For his towels, rather less so.

To be able to write, you have to be able to read. If I were a chef, I’d be losing my taste buds.

So – time for a brain scan?

And then I encounter lines like this one from a New York Times piece: ‘Two men are pursuing a lawsuit to stop scientists from using a giant panda accelerator, claiming it could create a black hole that may eat up the Earth.’

Particle, not panda. Particle. But just think – a panda accelerator!

So my eyes are on the blink and my brain may be packing up too. But when you’re shown visions of accelerating pandas, it’s hard to mind.

‘On a lush green hillside that dips into a river, dozens of labradors are busy building a dream getaway…’

Labourers, not labradors. But what if labradors really were building a dream getaway? What would it look like? And how would a labrador – perhaps with a graphic towel slung around its neck – operate a cement mixer?

Every mistake is an open door. Whether we go through depends on whether we avoid failure or explore it.

But even on the other side of the door, the roads we take will not be the same.

An article run last month in The New York Times examined different ways of thinking about creativity. One was put forward by scientist Rex Jung, a member of a team studying the neurology behind the creative process at the Mind Research Network in Albuquerque.

Their research suggests that creativity and intelligence don’t take the same route. When it comes to intelligence, the brain seems to be ‘an efficient superhighway that gets you from Point A to Point B,’ said Dr Jung. ‘But in the regions of the brain related to creativity, there appears to be lots of little side roads with interesting detours, and meandering little byways.’

It’s easy to tell which route you’ve taken: Just check what sort of questions you’re asking.

Let’s say that your eyes no longer do what they’re told and feed you headlines like ‘Banks adopt tougher sheep’ when it’s tougher steps that the banks have adopted.

Is there a physical problem with the eyes? Or the brain? Does the computer position need adjusting? How about taking more vision breaks?

These are the efficient questions, asked by the greyhound mind racing after a solution.

There’s another kind of question: What if banks really did adopt sheep? Why sheep? Why adopt? What’s wrong with just hiring them? And why do they have to be tougher? First line of defence against the accelerated pandas coming through the walls?

Psychologists call this divergent thinking. To measure creativity, they pose questions such as ‘What if clouds had strings?’ or ask test subjects to come up with as many uses as they can for, say, a rock.

The greyhound mind tends not to enjoy questions like these; it dismisses every route in which it cannot see a hare. Even an open field will look like a dead-end.

The creative mind is one that can give up its attachment to the hare. Freed from the imperative of the chase, it can ignore the routes others have taken, routes known to lead to hares, to come up with one of its own.

It may fail. In fact, it probably will, racking up a depressing number of errors along a path that may or may not lead to a hare.

But it’s worth remembering that the word ‘error’ comes from the Latin errare – to stray, to err, to wander. Every error is a step off the greyhound’s track; every error is an invitation.

One last headline: ‘Lawyers hit by falling trees’.

Fees, not trees. Fees.

But what if trees really were falling on lawyers? Did the trees fall or were they pushed? Can a tree be sued? Could the lawyers have avoided injury if they had adopted sheep? Or were their sheep simply not tough enough?

Think about it.

And err.



...


Afterword: The evening news recently had an item about US basketball. A player bounded across the screen, celebrating some triumph. The letters on the back of his shirt said, Briyani.

As I marvelled over a US basketball player having the same name as an Indian rice dish, the letters reorganised themselves in my brain.

Not Briyani, Bryant. Kobe Bryant. Well. Of course.
How brain dead was I yesterday?


21st June 2010


So brain dead that when I went online to check the latest World Cup results, I typed in the search field, 'oo'.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

You know you've been in Japan for too long when...


15th June 2010


...on reaching the bottom of a right-hand page in an English book, you don't turn the page but start reading the words on the left instead.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Because light that passes through paper is different


10th June 2010





Shop selling paper lamps at the junction of Shijo-dori and Kawabata-dori, near the Kamo river. Photo taken when the days were still cold and the nights, even colder.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Smile of the day


22nd May 2010













Jizo statue at Seigan-ji, a temple in the Shinkyogoku shopping area in the centre of Kyoto.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Owning up to your choices


20th May 2010


An afterword to the Bakumatsu arc. Not PG-rated at all but don't let that stop you from reading it.

...


It seemed like a good idea at the time.

I’d been wanting to write about 1860s Japan for a while, in particular the last years of the Tokugawa shogunate – years of confusion, drawn swords and foreign devils that ended one of the stablest regimes the country had ever known.

But if you’re going to do one piece, said a voice in my head, why not do a bunch of them? If you start with 1853, when the Americans and their gunships arrived, and finish around 1900, when the new imperial government had more or less got the hang of things, that gives you, what, 50 years of history? Should be good for at least four columns. Which, in a fortnightly gig, means 10 weeks of not having to worry about what to write next.

Something whispered misgivings but it went unheard against the louder, much louder voice that boomed, ‘Eight Weeks Free Of Columnist’s Block!’

So I began the research last year for the series I thought of as my Bakumatsu arc, a nod to the Japanese name for the end (matsu) of the shogunate (bakufu).

Six months later, the loud, pompom-waving cheerleader that promised the reprieve from Columnist’s Block had slunk away. All that was left was the little warning voice.

And this is what it said at the beginning and throughout the months of research: it won’t work.

Surrounded by history books and notes punctuated with the occasional exclamation mark of despair, I was forced to admit what I had known from the start – that there was no way I could fit a period as complex as the Bakumatsu into a newspaper column, not even five of them.

I mean, just the number of the players alone! They made War And Peace look like a budget production. To make things fit, I had to leave out swathes of history and 98.7 per cent of the cast of thousands. Writing about the past? I was running through it, apologising to ghosts.

But there was a much bigger problem: sources.

The horror began on a sunny day last year. I’d just finished taking photos of an old bridge when I walked past a historical plaque.

I stopped to read it. I reread it. Not trusting my eyes or my Japanese, I read it again. No. No, no, no, no, no.

Even on the third reading, the words on the plaque didn’t change. They declared that Sakuma Shozan, a leading 19th century proponent of Western knowledge, had been assassinated in that spot. Trouble was, I’d just read in a book that he’d been killed in a temple on the other side of town. And I was relying on that book – written by a distinguished historian – for much of the planned columns.

This wasn’t an issue of interpretation, a matter of arguing why the shogunate collapsed or how important a particular pact was in bringing it down. It was a question of who had got their facts right.

The nightmare didn’t end there. In March 1866, pro-emperor activist Sakamoto Ryoma was about to go to sleep in a Kyoto inn when a maid came running to warn him of a shogunate raid. She had seen the police through a window while taking a bath and dashed out. Some sources say she was completely naked; another notes that she took the time to throw on a robe but did not belt it. Yet another version has Ryoma, not the maid, as the one in the bath and claims that he fled through a window in the buff.

Who to believe? I began checking sources against each other. If Historian A’s account of an event corresponded with the versions by Historians B and C, I thought, it was bound to be more accurate.

And in many instances, Historians B and Co. did agree with Historian A. But only because, as the source attributions revealed, they were quoting Historian A. In a system where experts constantly cite each other, a mistake can be perpetuated for years.

The despair that descended was now so familiar we were on first-name terms.

A huge question mark hung over the historians’ work. But what about the primary sources? Surely those who had lived through the Bakumatsu and survived to write memoirs or to be interviewed could be trusted?

Conflicting accounts proved otherwise. Two people remembering a battle 50 years later will not tell the same story. Apart from lapses in memory, there is also the inseparable tint – or taint – of character. Anyone speaking of the past is bound to colour it: He wants himself, his comrades and his enemies remembered a certain way.

Despair was back again, showing me pictures of its children, Suspicion and Tight Feeling In The Stomach.

With so much that could not be verified, my account of the Bakumatsu would only be as reliable as a retelling of a reworking of a record of a recollection. It seemed like the most scrupulous thing to do would be to abandon the project – even if it meant throwing away half a year’s work.

But Despair reminded me that the last time we met, it was to angst over the unreliability of information in general. Whether the matter was the state of an inn maid’s undress or the rate at which the Himalayan glaciers were melting, it might be impossible to be certain about anything.

Yet whether the issue is history or climate change, walking away does not seem to be the answer.

In the face of so much uncertainty, it is still possible to choose and – more important – to be honest about the limits of your choice. Acknowledging the shifting ground under your feet makes it easier to stand in it – and to take a different stance if something new is revealed when the winds change.

The past four pieces that appeared under this label were my Bakumatsu. They are not authoritative essays on the period but a trail of breadcrumb words leading to a time 150 years ago, when Japan was plunged into crisis and men and women at every level of society and all sides of the conflict responded with courage, fear, self-interest, self-sacrifice, irrationalism, imagination and every shade of complexity available to the human heart.

Breadcrumb trails don’t last but if this one took you far enough to start looking for your own Bakumatsu – or just elsewhere for a little while – it’ll have lasted long enough.




The Ninomaru palace in Kyoto's Nijo castle where, in November 1867, shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu summoned all the feudal lords present in the city and announced his decision to return his political powers to the throne. This marked the end of over two centuries of military rule by the Tokugawa house and paved the way for Japan to become a modern nation.












Before throwing away the epic notes, I thought that I'd take a few souvenir shots of some of them. Each sheet is A4.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Last lot of sakura pictures this year, I swear


14th May 2010


Once a walled-off enclave for court nobles, the rectangular piece of land in the centre of Kyoto city is today a public park.

The palace where the emperor used to live before moving to Tokyo is still there though, on most days of the year, you need to apply for permission before you can enter the compound.

But the rest of the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden is open to all and it has become a popular spot with residents, who play sports, walk their dogs, bird-watch or take their children there.

And when the cherry trees bloom, it's full-on picnic season.




Yamazakura (山桜) in full bloom. Unlike the more common Somei Yoshino, the Yamazakura puts out leaves and flowers at the same time.

















When it comes to dating, age is no barrier.
















Neither is species.





This Kyoto resident has a gimpy back leg; he doesn't walk so much as limp and hop. But given how well the rest of him looks, I don't think it matters to the people he lives with.





Winner of the Most Troublesome-Looking Picnic Award. Admittedly no portable karaoke machine or barbecue grill but lots of points for bringing glasses, ceramic sake flasks, actual sake cups (!) and jubako (stack of lacquered boxes), which increases the likelihood that the food was prepared at home, rather than raided from the nearest convenience store.





Sakura in a high wind.





Not everyone's interested in flowers. Here, a boy demonstrates how to uncover the secrets of the universe with a stick.





Sumo-wrestling In The Park, With Dog

















Sunday In The Park, With Sakura

Monday, May 10, 2010

Building a vocabulary, one cut at a time


10th May 2010


And the word for today is 砥石 (pronounced toh-ee-shi*).

I decided to buy a whetstone while I still had fingers. You know what they say about blunt knives being more dangerous than sharp ones?

Absolutely true.



* If you can't pronounce the hyphens, don't worry about it.

Wednesday, May 05, 2010

First time lucky


5th May 2010


The Mainichi Daily News website runs an online haiku competition throughout the year and it is absurdly easy to take part. Last month, I went out to buy some groceries, came back, and did.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Rarer than a yeti sighting...


27th April 2010


...is a post in the other blog.

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Would you let this sleeping dog lie?


25th Sunday 2010






The days when Ayax the border collie accompanies his human to work (Mexican food van) are good days. If there is a limit to the amount of patting he will take from passing strangers, I have not discovered it yet.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Plan A? What's that?


17th April 2010


Went for a walk by the Kamogawa to try to think my way through a knot. I didn't make any headway, mostly because I spent all my time taking photos.











Man's best furry.








Man's best feathery.


Friday, April 09, 2010

Bakumatsu arc #4: Restaurants, red-light districts and revolution


10th April 2010


PG-rated because the other instalments were and I don't want this one to feel left out.

...


Taking part in politics in the last years of the Tokugawa shogunate was not conducive to reaching a ripe old age.

Intimidated by the American warships that steamed up to Japan in 1853, the military government caved in to trade demands from the West. This sparked off a wave of anger in the country that eventually brought down the shogunate and led to the establishment of an emperor-centric government in 1868.

But the years leading up to this were dangerous ones for both those who supported the shogunate and those who opposed it. Apart from the battlefield deaths, there were also numerous fatalities from assassinations and forced suicides.

Pro-emperor activist Nakaoka Shintaro had his way of fortifying himself for a dangerous mission: he would go to a brothel. And according to his diary, he would run into the other members there, which meant that the rest of the evening was divided between talking about politics and making use of the facilities.

Much of the revolution seems to have been planned in red-light districts and restaurants. The reason usually given is that, in those times, these were the only two places where men could gather without drawing too much attention from the authorities. There were other meeting places. But the men do not seem to have tried too hard to use them.

In a quiet neighbourhood in the south-west of Kyoto city, a restaurant that served the activists still stands. Sumiya’s rooms – decorated with cloisonné and mother-of-pearl – stun even now but none of this can be seen from the front of the building, a severe stretch of dark wooden lattices.

This discretion matched the clandestine nature of the rebels’ work. Among those who gathered at the Sumiya were Sakamoto Ryoma and Saigo Takamori – key players in the anti-shogunate movement. Revolution could be an expensive business and they invited wealthy merchants to the restaurant in a bid to get them to donate to their cause.

Adding to the intrigue of those days, the Sumiya entertained customers from both sides. Members of the Shinsengumi special police force, who would have promptly arrested Ryoma had they seen him there, also favoured the restaurant, which was about 20 minutes’ walk away from their headquarters.



Banquets and dinner parties would be thrown at the Sumiya and geisha would be summoned – the restaurant was located in the Shimabara pleasure quarters – to sing and dance for the customers.

A party held one rainy evening in September 1863 is still remembered. Not long after its founding, the Shinsengumi split into two factions. One was headed by corps commander Serizawa Kamo. Prone to violent outbursts, he became even more unstable after his right-hand man died. His subordinate had been cornered in a brothel by the other faction earlier that month. Accused of extortion and neglecting his duties, he was pressured into commiting suicide there and then. The alternative was beheading, considered a dishonourable death.

Yet when the leader of the rival faction, Kondo Isami, invited Serizawa to a party at the Sumiya a number of days later, the commander attended with two of his men. Perhaps Kondo knew that the hard-drinking Serizawa would not turn down a chance to carouse.



Kondo made sure that the sake flowed and that there were women on hand to keep his guests’ cups filled.

By the time Serizawa and his men left, he had drunk so much that a palanquin had to be called to take him back to his quarters. His mistress joined him in his room and along with his subordinates and two women from the pleasure quarters, the revelry continued. It was only when they were too drunk to sit up that they went to sleep.

Outside, the rain kept falling. Undeterred by the storm, Kondo’s men went through the garden and into the house: they had come for the last of the Serizawa faction.

Serizawa tried to run but it did not take the assassins long to finish him off. The women of the pleasure district and one of his supporters fled in the uproar. Less lucky were the other subordinate and his mistress; they lay dead in the room where they had slept, their heads cut off.

The samurai’s fondness for red-light areas and restaurants meant that the women who worked there, whether as courtesans or maids, were in constant danger of being caught up in the violence of raids and assassinations.

But there were those who risked themselves willingly, entertaining clients from the other side in order to spy on them. The women may have done this because they believed in the cause they were supporting or because, like Ikumatsu the geisha, they had more personal reasons.

Ikumatsu was a geisha of the Sanbongi pleasure quarter, located near the Kamogawa with a view of the eastern hills beyond the river. She was a skilled dancer and musician but these may not have been the qualities that drew the attention of activist Katsura Kogoro. The samurai from the pro-emperor fief of Choshu was used to the attention of women. The photos of him in his youth – and the glib tongue he was said to have – explain his popularity.

Still, something about Ikumatsu prompted him to put up the huge sum needed to pay off her debts to her okiya, or geisha house, and buy her out. As a rebel leader, Katsura was forced at times to lie low until the attention of the shogunate forces shifted elsewhere. When Ikumatsu visited him in his hiding place, she would cause a stir because of her eye-catching kimono. Reckless this might have been but this side of her apparently captivated Katsura.

Meanwhile, radicals in Choshu were agitating for action. The fief was out of favour with the imperial court and they were convinced that this was because rival domains had usurped its position. On August 20, 1864, the Choshu troops that had gathered outside Kyoto advanced on the palace to eject the ‘interlopers’.

Hours later, the radicals were forced into retreat and the fires that broke out in the conflict destroyed thousands of homes. The furious court instructed the shogunate to punish Choshu and Katsura once again came into its sights, even though he had opposed the coup and did not take part in the fighting.

He went into hiding under a bridge on the Kamogawa, spending five days among the crowds of homeless who lived on the riverbanks. The story goes that Ikumatsu went to take him food and even when interrogated by the authorities, did not give him away.

Katsura managed to escape from Kyoto and about one and a half years later, represented Choshu in negotiations with Satsuma fief for an alliance that sealed the fate of the shogunate. He went on to become a prominent figure in the new imperial government. With him was Ikumatsu, whom he married.

About 150 years after the two of them met, lovers still pass under the bridges of the Kamogawa. But they live in a different Japan and as they wander beside the river, they do not have to risk their lives – though the same cannot be said of their hearts.





(All pictures taken at the Sumiya.)

Thursday, April 08, 2010

The garden up north


8th April 2010


The lights come on in the Kyoto Botanical Garden after dark for about a week during sakura season.








Somei Yoshino, probably the most common kind of sakura in Japan.



Weather forecast was for cherry blossom skies.






Glow-in-the-dark, cone-shaped sakura. Very rare.

Saturday, April 03, 2010

White nights in spring


3rd April 2010


The annual light-up in Gion Shirakawa.













































The entrance to a tiny shrine.
















Saturday, March 20, 2010

Sakura may hog the press...


20th March 2010


...but it's worth remembering that plum and peach trees can look like this.















































Winter and spring in the same frame.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Let a hundred coaches zoom


19th March 2010




Sakura season has begun. Here's an earlyish one out of the gate at Kodaiji.