Listening In

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

The loot!


11th August 2011


Or at least some of it from this year's Gojo pottery festival.




































The pieces above all from Hagi potter Yamane Seigan. The people at the stall remembered me from previous years and were generous with discounts.





























































I'd been looking for big bowls, preferably the kind that wouldn't explode in the microwave. They are the one-dish-meal-eater's best friend.





A warm little rice bowl.





















It took a while to get everyone washed, dried and photographed. But handling them's part of the fun.

Friday, July 29, 2011

'Sooner or later, I will finish'


30th July 2011


There are many wonderful stories about Yamaoka Tesshu. Here are a few of them.


...


Japan began the year with civil war. It was January 1868: a few weeks before, the shogun had handed his powers back to the emperor but the transition soon unravelled into fighting.

The shogun retreated from Kyoto to his stronghold in Edo, the city that would become Tokyo. It did not take the imperial army long to follow.

While shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu did not seem keen to continue fighting, any emissary sent to negotiate a surrender was bound to be captured or killed before reaching the imperial command centre about 150km away.

It looked as if Edo – and its million or so inhabitants – would be plunged into war. And they might well have been if not for a 33-year-old samurai in the shogun’s personal guard.

Yamaoka Tesshu, who volunteered for the mission, was soon behind enemy lines. He found the streets lined with troops. Another man might have tried to travel covertly but Tesshu just walked down the middle of the road.

When he reached a place where he thought imperial commander Saigo Takamori might be staying, he announced himself by bellowing, ‘I have come from the house of Tokugawa Yoshinobu, enemy of the court!’

Tesshu later recounted that there were probably a hundred people in the house but they simply stared at him.

It turned out that Saigo was not there so Tesshu carried on walking. None of the sentries stopped him and he finally made his way to the command centre. Something about Tesshu made Saigo, himself a figure of considerable presence, listen.

After they worked out the preliminary terms of surrender, Saigo remarked: ‘I should have you thrown into prison for infiltrating the camp.’

‘Exactly what I would have wished for,’ said Tesshu. ‘Please do so.’

Saigo laughed. ‘Why don’t we have a drink?’

They had more than one. Saigo later said of the younger man: ‘He has no interest in reputation, nor in position or money. He has no need even of life itself. How is one to deal with a man like that?’

That baffling man, Yamaoka Tesshu, was born on July 23 in 1836. After being orphaned at the age of 17, he left his five younger brothers with his relatives, giving them almost all the money he had inherited to pay for his siblings’ care.

He rarely had much money because he was always donating it to charity. Rather than pursue wealth, he pursued his obsessions: swordsmanship, calligraphy and Zen. He found time for these even in his years of public office, when he served first in the new imperial government then as an aide to the emperor.

It was Saigo who recommended him for the post. Others protested – place a man who had once served the court’s enemy beside the head of that court? Was Saigo mad? But, believing that Tesshu would be a good influence on the young emperor, Saigo insisted.

Tesshu agreed to serve at court for 10 years. Once that time was up, he was free to devote all his time to his obsessions. His daily schedule: swordsmanship from 6am to 9am, calligraphy and painting from 10am to 4pm or 5pm, then Zen meditation or sutra-copying at night.

To Tesshu, these things were not separate; poor swordsmanship or calligraphy reflected a lack of spiritual growth.

Though he was reckoned a master swordsman by most, the memory of a bout he had lost when he was 28 haunted him. If the conversation lapsed, he would cross two pipes like swords, seeking the reason for his defeat. Answers sometimes suggested themselves to him at night. He would wake his wife up and get her to hold a wooden sword while he wielded another. (It has not been recorded whether his wife ever, at such moments, smacked him with the sword.)

He also tackled the problem through meditation. And it was during contemplation that the answer finally arrived when he was 45 years old. This is how he described the moment: ‘I reached the state of no-enemy… As I recalled my previous notions of skilfulness and ineptness, fighting and no fighting, I realised that those dichotomies have nothing to do with the opponent; all those things are creations of one’s mind. If there is self, there is an enemy; if there is no self, there is no enemy.’

In its original state, the mind is as clear as a still pond. If the moon hangs over the pond, the water simply reflects it back: an instant and appropriate reaction. But if the pond is stirred up and the water clouded, it cannot do this.

To dwell on an opponent’s supposed strength or weakness is to stir up the mind. If the mind thinks the opponent is stronger, it becomes afraid and the body, tense. Neither can respond properly. Caught by the image of the enemy it has created, the mind stops – and becomes stuck.

Galvanised by this realisation, Tesshu established his own school of swordsmanship. He called it Muto: No Sword. ‘ “No sword” means “no mind”; “no mind” means “the mind that abides nowhere”. If the mind stops, the opponent appears; if the mind remains fluid, no enemy exists,’ he wrote in an explanation of the school’s name.

The training at his school was, like his own, arduous. Beginners had to spend at least three years on only one move: raining blows down on the opponent’s head. This may be why there are only a handful of Muto swordsmen today. But Tesshu’s disciples and their students played a great role in the development of kendo, the modern form of Japanese swordsmanship.

Tesshu’s achievements in swordsmanship were immense. So were his achievements in calligraphy. On average, he brushed about 500 sheets a day though his record was 1,300 pieces.

In the final eight years of his life, he produced at least a million works, mainly to raise funds for charity.

A friend once commented on the volume of his output. ‘I’ve just begun,’ Tesshu replied. ‘It will take a long time to reach 35 million.’ The figure referred to the number of people in Japan at the time; his brush was a way of helping fellow travellers on the road.

The amount of time he spent on his three obsessions might seem self-indulgent. A prominent activist once asked him: ‘When you meditate, are you serving your lord? Are you serving the nation? The people?’

But Tesshu understood that to develop the self was to serve others and that true service could not be accomplished without devoting time to the self.

Two years before his death from stomach cancer, the 51-year-old Tesshu declared that he was going to copy out the whole Buddhist canon. A friend who heard this was astounded: ‘Even if you live to be a hundred, you couldn’t possibly copy more than half.’

Tesshu assured his friend that he was not mad. He’d soon be exchanging this body for another, he said. ‘Sooner or later, somewhere, someplace, I will finish.’

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Now that irises are in bloom


14th June 2011




The western pond of Heian Jingu. It's a Shinto shrine but gardening also seems to be its religion.







One kind of iris, three different looks.
















It looks even better when there are other kinds of irises around.



At Heian Jingu, even if you go with something in mind, you always find something unexpected.












And refreshments. Mustn't forget those. On the menu: green tea roll cake with azuki beans and chestnuts with iced coffee or yuzu tea.

Thursday, June 09, 2011

Doing the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route


9th June 2011


It's summer in Kyoto but in the high mountains of Toyama and Nagano, it still looks like winter.





The Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, which straddles the prefectures of Toyama and Nagano in central Japan. Buses, cable cars and a ropeway get you from one end of the route to the other.





















The Kurobe Dam, Japan's largest, is one of the highlights of the Nagano side of the route. A cruise ship takes visitors round Lake Kurobe, which is 1,448m above sea level. If you were a lake monster looking for high-rise accommodation, I'd recommend this spot.

Visitors travelling from the Toyama side would see the dam last. What they'd see first if they were there any time from April to June: a corridor carved through deep snow.



































You can leave messages in the snow corridor. TK, said one of them, *hearts* AY.




At the end of the corridor, visitors double back, this time over the snow, which can reach 18m high. Informal winter sports are played along the way. This is the snow putt, where you heave a snowball as far as you can. Some people actually tried to do the snow putt uphill.















Snow floor routine. The final pose for the judges.






Lots of winter fun to be had along the route. And that includes lunch.

Friday, May 27, 2011

A break from the usual


28th May 2011


I had the chance to travel to Toyama prefecture by the Sea of Japan earlier this month. They get lots of snow up there. And they grow tulips. In spring, they have a tulip festival.

























I had my doubts but I was assured that this is a tulip.















The children I saw at the fair seemed to enjoy the tulips immensely. They're bright, after all, and bloom at child height. But this little boy seemed more interested in the gravel - a Zen garden type, perhaps.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Last lot for the year


14th May 2011


I promised a friend that I'd post pictures of the sakura by the river once it bloomed. It's a little late but here they are.

















































































There was a young man holding a guitar and a pencil. He seemed to be writing a song.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Saturday at a shrine


17th April 2011





I've learned enough about Heian Jingu to expect crowds there in sakura season. The maiko performance in the shrine courtyard was a surprise though.


















Another unexpected star.







The main attraction.

















The wind steals from the trees...





...and leaves the loot in the ponds.





A shot I can never resist taking. This time though, there were bits of pink in the water's sky.












For this period, special sakura omikuji. The trees where people had tied their pink fortune slips looked like cherry blossom trees from a distance.

South of the shrine was a little park filled with kids running about, making mud balls and throwing stuff around. There was also this.


Thursday, April 14, 2011

Wheels are turning...


15th April 2011





...in this city of cyclists.

















How to load an umbrella on a bike.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Whatever you can find


11th April 2011


I knew the light wouldn't be good - it was too late and cloudy - but I went down to Kiyamachi-dori anyway.



When I got there, a man wearing a jacket with the word "impulse" cut in front of me.





A little canal called Takasegawa runs along Kiyamachi-dori. In the days before trains, goods would be ferried along the canal as far as Osaka.




With the sakura in bloom, interesting buildings turn glamorous.




Cherry blossoms and adult beverages: an ancient combination.






The light was a little better at the Kamogawa, which runs parallel to the Takasegawa.




Though it was a weekday, there were people having flower-viewing parties. (Shoes aren't usually left on the mat but it was a windy day.)




Flower-viewing party for one. Easier to organise.




Spot the sparrow!




Wild geese - the stone kind - flying over the river.




The light faded fast and when it was gone, I went to Nijo castle.




For the light-up.