Listening In

Thursday, June 18, 2009

You were saying?


18th June 2006


I told myself it was just cloth. I told myself they were just colours. I told myself it was crazy to spend so much on a scarf, however it had been dyed.

I may have told myself other things.

I'm not sure because by that time, I'd stopped listening.












If you're interested, they take commissions, I think.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Bear with me


15th June 2009


More than two years after getting my present camera, I have finally worked out how to take black and white photos with it.

I'd forgotten the rainbow in those two colours. So I'm afraid there's going to be a deluge of black and white shots for the next little while. Bear with me.

These two are from Heian Jingu, a shrine usually associated with colour.





The bridge that ends the garden tour for most visitors.







Another bridge but, this time, a dragon.

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Chotto Edo made (Just stepping out to Edo)


10th June 2009


I went to Edo, or Tokyo as I must remember to call it, on business for a few days. I rode on a lot of trains.






Though perhaps not this one.

What did I see? People, lots of people, many of them in black suits.

Here is a picture of crowds at Shinbashi.











Here is a picture of crowds at Nihonbashi.






How does anyone find anyone else in this mess, I wondered. Perhaps it starts with a cup of coffee...






...then an outing to the theatre...




...and a spot of Edo-mae sushi after the show.






Then the next thing you know, there's another (maybe bigger) pair of footwear in your foyer...






...and your laundry load has increased exponentially.






It could happen. After all, anything can happen in a country where the prime minister is a mini star. And I know he is because the map outside the station closest to him told me so.


Friday, June 05, 2009

A rainy day in Gion


5th June 2009


My umbrella has declared that the rainy season of tsuyu has reached Kyoto. It issued this statement after a wet day in Gion, where we inspected the rain-slick road.




Still, it wasn't as grey a day as my camera's black-and-white function would have you believe.





















And there was colour at the cafe we went to check out.




There were other things inside. Like quality sugar sent out by the kitchen staff.
















I didn't order this but I helped to finish it.


And a customer at the next table also brought quality sweet.
















This is Akari-chan. When she wasn't in the sling, she sat in her mother's big black bag and threw things to the floor. Not in a tantrum but just because it was interesting to see other people scramble.

Perhaps this is why the sky lets rain fall.

Tuesday, June 02, 2009

Reporting live from the Ark


3rd June 2009


However I look at it, it just doesn’t seem like a pyjama event, even if I wear the black and white ones.

One of the best things about a mostly cultural column is that it can be done in jeans and, if working from home, in pyjamas.

But there isn’t much call for pyjamas when I’m assigned to report on part of President S R Nathan’s visit to Japan earlier this month.

Still, some of the drill is the same. When covering a festival, you go well in advance if you want a good view. And it’s no different with a dignitary’s visit. It’s like hitting a succession of airport departure lounges in a day: rush and wait, rush and wait, rush and wait and wait.

Going early lets you scope out routes, check camera angles, interview staff for background information and, sometimes, do a spot of advertising.

While waiting for the Singapore delegation to arrive at the Cenotaph in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, a Japanese journalist beside me falls into conversation with visiting schoolchildren.

He tells them which newspaper he belongs to. ‘Do you kids subscribe?’

‘My family does,’ a little girl says.

‘Great – thanks for your patronage.’

After watching Mr Nathan lay a wreath at the Cenotaph, we dash off to take up our positions in the Peace Memorial Museum. But we can stay only long enough to see the delegation tour the first floor before we hurtle to the next stop, a room at the other end of the building.

We charge across an open expanse of concrete, startling the shoals of schoolchildren darting about.

An official sprinting ahead of the Singapore journalists reaches the other side first. He yanks open a door to reveal...a stairwell. Someone behind me groans. Then we are charging upstairs. But more slowly.

Ranks of Japanese media are already there and we squeeze in. About 20 people, all wearing black except for the occasional rebel in grey, cluster around the edge of the room. Hardly anyone talks; we wait in the silence of the suits.

Perhaps it’s because we’re indoors. No one seems to have any qualms about chatting when under an open sky.

Earlier at the Cenotaph, a Japanese reporter sidled up to ask the Singaporean journalists how the president’s last name should be pronounced. We told him.

His brow furrowed. Neither the ‘th’ nor ‘ern’ sound are found in Japanese and then there’s the question of whether to use a rising or falling tone. A debate broke out: NAA-zahn or Naa-ZAHN?

The journalist who asked was carrying a thick sheaf of material – event information, maps, the president’s bio data. Everywhere, the Japanese attention to detail.

Watching the hosts bustle about, one visiting Singaporean says: ‘Because it’s Japan, I can relax.’

Not that much relaxing seems to be going on, especially among the younger officials on both sides. Their faces generally appear in one of two settings: tired or tense. They look as if they have to load the animals of the earth onto Noah’s Ark but lightning is already flashing and the headcount is different every time and the lemurs keep escaping and…and…

The ones who manage to keep cracking jokes deserve a special award.

But by the last full day of the trip, the tension is ebbing away. Perhaps because the finish line is in sight or because we’ve arrived on the Hiroshima island of Miyajima and the sea air is working but we forget for a while that we’re in suits.

On our walk in from the harbour, we take photos of the scenery, each other, the deer wandering about.




One official moves as if mesmerised to a roadside stall. His gaze fixed on the oysters sizzling on a grill, he mutters something about not having had breakfast and digs out his wallet. Which is the signal for the others to stop and buy oysters on sticky rice.

‘Totally tourist mode,’ says another official.

Things are looking up on the Ark: the animals – the elephants, the giraffes and the spiny anteaters – are safely stowed in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front and if the lemurs haven’t made it back on time, well, that’s just too bad.

But when we reach the shrine the delegation is scheduled to visit, it’s back to business and a sober discussion about ramps.

The media area at the shrine is marked out with knee-high wooden barricades; every place has a different way of telling journalists where to stand.

At the Sento Gosho imperial gardens the day before, white raffia was pinned down on the gravel to form a discreet triangle. We stepped inside and waited.

After some time, an official told us to move closer to the entrance. Perhaps we made the scenery look untidy in our old spot. Whatever the reason, we got a new triangle at our feet.

When we arrived in the media van earlier, two men with wide bristly brooms were slowly sweeping the sea of gravel spilling across the entrance. We hopped out and crossed to the gardens on the other side.

An official came running up – could we please walk on the perimeter? Chastened, we moved to the side. Another man rushed out with a broom to restore the gravel we’d churned up.

Waiting in the barely visible triangle, I stared out over the composed grey plain. Would the visitors notice the work put in? Could they, given that the convoy vehicles would just plough straight into the gravel?

But this may be what it means to serve. Much has been said about service though most people seem to have a better idea of how they would like to be treated than of what they are prepared to do.

Perhaps real service is to know that what you do will remain invisible to most but to do it anyway as if it will be the first thing seen.

Remembering the men methodically soothing a gravel sea for a foreign Ark, I feel a sudden urge to seize a wide broom and find my own patch to smooth.

I wonder if I can do it in pyjamas.

Wednesday, May 06, 2009

New arrows


6th May 2009


Before the feathers get banged up in practice, I took a few photos.


The red backdrop is a drawstring bag that the arrow-maker threw in; the design shows a mounted archer taking aim.











Aren't they lovely?

Friday, April 24, 2009

Spring is...














...enjoying the flowers that other people look after.

Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Saucer across the universe in style


9th April 2009






Item: Traditional Japanese flying saucer. Made almost entirely of paper, string and bamboo - organic, biodegradable materials that won't alarm natives on technologically backward planets. Track record in reaching warp speeds spotty but manufacturer claims it's about the journey, not how many light years you take to get there. Optional extras include karaoke-cum-tea-ceremony room and hot springs bath. See your dealer for details.

Wednesday, April 01, 2009

They're coming through the walls, they're coming through the walls...


1st April 2009


There's a Japanese saying that all men are wolves. I spotted one in Gion, the most well-known geisha area in Kyoto. I'm not sure this is what Neil Gaiman had in mind but it was a wolf in the wall.


Monday, March 23, 2009

From the bottom dark, resurrection


24th March 2009


It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.

It was 1985, the year when Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and US President Ronald Reagan first met, the year when Nelson Mandela spurned a conditional offer of freedom from the South African government, the year when Microsoft released Windows 1.0.

It was also the year when it really meant something to be a fan of the Hanshin Tigers. For the first time in 21 years, the team emerged champions of the Central League, one of the two professional baseball leagues in Japan.

Celebrations reached a fever pitch in the western city of Osaka and what happened next has become legend in this baseball-mad country.

The story goes that ecstatic fans gathered at the Ebisu bridge in downtown Osaka and began chanting the names of the team members. With each name called out, a supporter who resembled the player jumped into the Dotonbori river beneath.

But the team’s star slugger, American Randy Bass, proved problematic. Then someone spied the Colonel Sanders statue outside a nearby Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet. The mascot was bearded and Western; so was Bass. Good enough. The statue was uprooted and thrown into the river.

As with many legends, variations have crept in over the years of retelling. Another version says that the crowd was only giving the statue a victory toss in the air. They tossed too enthusiastically and it flew into the river. However it happened, the Colonel plunged into the murky depths of the Dotonbori and stayed there.

The Hanshin Tigers went on that year to win the Japan Series, the height of professional baseball in the country.

But that glory has eluded the team ever since. And in the 24 years since the Colonel sunk to the riverbed, the Hanshin Tigers have plummeted to the bottom of their league 10 times.

Some people put this down to the “Curse of Colonel Sanders” and though attempts were made to recover the statue over the years, all failed.

Then the city of Osaka decided to improve the walkways beside the Dotonbori river, which meant sending divers to check for unexploded bombs from World War II.

They didn’t find any but did turn up a barrel-like object. Arrangements were made to remove it and on March 10, at about 4pm, a crane on a salvage barge lifted it clear of the waters.

‘It looks like a corpse,’ said watching construction workers but the foreman, a Hanshin Tigers fan, cried: ‘It’s the Colonel!’

Strictly speaking, it was only half of the Colonel: the top part of the 26kg plastic statue was found about 200m away from the site of the historic toss.

The next morning, the search resumed under the eyes of workers, residents and the media. About 10 minutes after the statue’s right hand was found, a voice exploded from a speaker on the barge: ‘It’s the lower body. There’s no mistake about it.’

The onlookers cheered.

The years – almost a quarter of a century – in the sludge of the Dotonbori had not been kind to the Colonel. Not only was it badly stained, it had been broken into bits. Even though the two halves of the statue have been rejoined, it is still missing its feet and left hand. And its iconic black-rim glasses are gone too.

Not that any of this matters to Hanshin Tigers fans, who hope that now that the figure has been recalled to life, the team’s fortunes will also be resurrected.

The team management seems to be thinking along the same lines. On the day that the bottom half of the Colonel was pulled out of the river, Hanshin Tigers president Nobuo Minami told the manager of Koshien Stadium – the team’s home base in neighbouring Hyogo Prefecture – to ask for the statue.

‘The Colonel Sanders figure is a piece of Tigers history,’ said Mr Minami, adding that he would like it displayed in the museum being added to the team’s stadium.

Kentucky Fried Chicken Japan, which had thought about moving the statue to its franchise in the stadium, responded positively. ‘It’s an undeserved honour,’ it said. ‘If the Tigers make a formal request, we will certainly consider it.’

Still, the real question to thousands of baseball fans is not the statue’s future but that of the Hanshin Tigers. The Colonel may have been rescued from its river prison but will the team be able to break out of its Bastille of failure?

Defeat constrains movement and with each loss, the muddled mind is forced into a smaller and smaller cell until walls are all it knows. Winning calls for breadth of vision, a view of the future so wide and vivid it becomes the present.

But that present may take time to come and when you’re pitched to the bottom, it may be hard to see past the dark. It’s even harder if, like the Colonel, you’ve lost your glasses.

Yet when the statue was pulled out of the mud, though its paintwork had disappeared into a mottled coat of grey, its smile had not dimmed. It wasn’t the face of someone who curses misfortune or those responsible for it. Whether or not the Hanshin Tigers retake the No.1 spot, we already have a winner.

...


(Go say hello to the Colonel.)

Saturday, March 21, 2009

The fox bride's wedding procession


21st March 2009


Today was the second-last day of the Hanatouro light-up in Higashiyama, the eastern hills, and as expected, it was packed.

But the event is one of my favourites in the Kyoto calendar so I went anyway. Exhibitions and performances are dotted along the 4.6km route and this year, I caught one of the stranger activities.

At 7pm and 8.15pm, a curious procession set out from the imposing gate of Chion-in temple. Preceded by attendants bearing lanterns, a woman wearing a fox mask and wedding clothes travelled slowly by rickshaw through the sea of visitors.

It was the wedding procession of a fox bride (kitsune no yome iri junkou; 狐の嫁入り巡行). If I understand the event pamphlet correctly, it's an old practice done for luck.

But kitsune no yome iri also refers to the drizzling rain that falls in bright sunshine - apparently so named because of a belief that a fox bride was going to meet her husband and showers were needed to shield her from human eyes.

The procession I saw today moved in complete silence except for an alternating accompaniment of a bell rung once, then wooden clappers cracking like a thunderbolt. Ring, crack, ring, crack - and a fox woman with wedding white over her head and around her passing through.

When I looked over the photos I'd taken, it seemed as if she was materialising out of thin air. The photos wouldn't have looked that way if I had a camera that could take moving objects at night.

But I prefer my flawed, eerie version.












Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Visit of the Lake People


5th March 2009


Recently, old friends whom I shall call the Lake People visited Kyoto. Since I don't have an account at a photo-sharing website, I'll park the photos here for a few days.














Kitano Tenmangu shrine, home to about 2,000 plum trees.


























At Misoguigawa in Pontocho. Sitting down to dinner together for the first time in 10 years.























Heian Jingu, where the plum trees are also in bloom.












Demonstration of how to put on a juuni hitoe at Shimogamo Shrine.





Sanzen-in temple, just before closing time. Monks busy with rakes and vacuum cleaners.











Making traditional Japanese sweets (wagashi) at Kanshundo because partings should always be accompanied by cake.

Saturday, February 28, 2009

The two of us on your bike


28th February 2009


One of the brands of tea that I buy ran a haiku contest and includes the winning entries in each box.

So in a box of 20 teabags, 20 poems. This morning - afternoon, really - I tore open a foil packet, took out the teabag and read on the other side of the packet:

二人乗り
重いと言わない
君の汗


Freely translated:

The two of us on your bike
but of the weight behind
your sweat, you say
nothing.


A winner from a junior high school girl.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

In the spirit of the day


14th February 2008


A diver does not abandon
a seaweed-filled bay...
Will you then turn away
from this floating, sea-foam body
that waits for your gathering hands?

- Ono no Komachi (834?-?)


From The Ink Dark Moon, translated by Jane Hirshfield with Mariko Aratani
Fura-fura


12th February 2008


I haven't been to the dojo for a month because I've been ill with one thing or another so I decided to make the effort to train today. I wasn't exactly feeling well this afternoon - feverish and a dodgy throat - but I was feeling better. And kyudo isn't exactly an aerobic martial art. Should be fine, I thought.

It turned out to be not such a great idea. Just firing two shots pushed the world into slow spin. Fura-fura, the Japanese call it - dizzywizzywhirlyswirly.

But it's Kawaguchi-sensei's birthday this Sunday and there was a presentation of a bouquet of flowers - all the students lined up in two rows, sitting with their feet under them in the formal seiza position - and a small party.

Various people contributed snacks and Murata-san bought a large box of doughnuts (he went round collecting 200 yen for them and the flowers; I hope he got all his money back).

Apparently, he ended up buying the doughnuts because he'd lost to Sakai-san in a match on Sunday. If she'd lost, she'd have been the one to make the trip to Mister Donut.

'I lost by one arrow,' said Murata-san. He drew himself up. 'But it's okay. I don't mind.'

It was a good idea to go to the dojo today, after all.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Spot the unicorn


25th January 2009


What is this life, asked a poet, if full of care, we have no time to stand and stare?

So I’ve been staring at a beer can. Specifically, a can from Kirin, a major brewery in Japan.

I’ve been puzzling over its logo of a unicorn – the kirin – ever since a teacher told me that hidden inside is the word itself.

It’s written in the katakana script, one of three used in modern Japanese, and I’ve been turning the can this way and that, trying to find the word. Is it spelled out through the angle of the unicorn’s neck and the flow of its mane? Or in the arrangement of its legs and tail?

For those tempted to try this riddle, here’s a clue: look in the mane and tail and forget about strange angles.

If you don’t have the patience – or a magnifying glass – you could just enjoy the logo. It’s a handsome creature, with a black-scaled body and a full golden mane that doubles up as a beard.

This kirin owes something to the Chinese unicorn, or the qilin (written with the same characters but pronounced differently). Accounts vary but the qilin is said to have the body of a deer, the tail of an ox, the head of a lion and the hooves of a horse. (Opinion splits over the hooves; some think they’re cloven.)

The qilin is nothing like the pearly, incandescent unicorns of the West; it’s covered with green scales. If you met such a chimera and ran away screaming, no one would think the worse of you.

But there’s really no need to run. The qilin is apparently so gentle, it pays great attention to where it places its hooves so as not to crush living things underfoot.

Its name is a combination of qi, the male unicorn, and lin, the female. It is said that the latter has no horn although this tells you less about the qilin than it does about the people writing about it – and how they feel about females with sharp objects.

Unicorns, being generally well-mannered, will not laugh when you tell them about this differentiation. And the females will, in a well-mannered fashion, not draw attention to the horns on their foreheads.

That single horn is something the qilin has in common with its Western cousin, which looks more like a horse, albeit one with a goat’s beard, lion’s tail and split hooves.

It is an image of purity and beauty – but where there is beauty, too often there is also the desire to acquire.

The traditional way of catching a unicorn is to set a young woman as bait. The idea is that unicorns are drawn to virgins and on finding one, will lay their head in her lap and go to sleep.

Though this manoeuvre has been described in medieval lore and any number of tapestries, it tells you less about unicorns than it does about the people writing about them – and how they feel about sleeping in virgins’ laps.

It is actually not that hard to catch a unicorn. Hunters will tell you different, of course, but they have reasons of their own for doing so, reasons that have mostly to do with their lack of a pension and medical benefits.

It is true that unicorns have horns (yes, yes, even the female ones) but they rarely use them for defence. It is also true that they are fast but no faster than a cheetah, say, or a shooting star. And besides, mankind has a history of overcoming speed.

So why have so few unicorns been captured, so few that most doubt they even exist? It is simple: they are not caught because they are not seen. Not invisible, just unnoticed.

Not possible, you say? Not possible for a creature at least as big as a deer, with a horn sticking out of its head, which may or may not look like a lion’s, to be ignored?

If you ask Joshua Bell, he may say otherwise. One weekday morning in 2007, the award-winning violinist busked for 43 minutes in a busy Washington subway station. His performance was organised by The Washington Post as an experiment in perception, priorities and public taste: “In a banal setting at an inconvenient time, would beauty transcend?”

For the seven commuters who stopped to watch for at least a minute, it did. But for the rest – over a thousand people – Bell and his Stradivari violin were either invisible or a nuisance competing with the phones in their hands and the headphones in their ears.

He made US$32.17, not counting the US$20 given by the one person who recognised him. A bit of a comedown for a performer who can command as much as US$1,000 a minute.

But when he watched the video of the experiment – it was taped secretly – just one thing puzzled him. Not the fact that he didn’t draw a crowd because it was, after all, a weekday morning and people were rushing to work.

What stumped him was “the number of people who don’t pay attention at all, as if I’m invisible. Because, you know what? I’m makin’ a lot of noise!”

Any unicorns present would not have been surprised. They know the human capacity to turn blind and deaf; they depend on it.

This capacity is refined as we grow older – as children, we are wide open. The tape of Bell’s subway performance shows that all the youngsters who went past tried to stop and watch. And that all of them were hurried away by their parents.

You could argue that this is just how children are and they would have done the same thing if it’d been a beginner on the bongo drums rather than a violin virtuoso.

Even so, there’s something to be said about a worldview that has time for both.

This is the real reason why virgins came to be used as unicorn bait. All the hunters needed was for somebody who could still see things as they were. This usually meant someone young enough to spot any passing unicorns and point them out to the hunters. Virginity was just a coincidence though it sounded much better if you were trying to raise your fees. And it made for nicer tapestries.

The difference between seeing as a child and as an adult is time: you know that you’re growing up when you feel like you never have any. So from the world that has robbed you of leisure, you withhold vision, hoarding your attention.

This seems all the more necessary in cities, where sounds and pictures rush in like harpies that will scratch out your eyes and scream you into deafness.

In self-defence, we blinker ourselves with tiny screens and stop up our ears with headphones.

But if we can teach ourselves not to see, we can teach ourselves to see.

I’ve been practising with a can of Kirin beer but you can start with something closer to hand.

You may, for instance, know someone who’s a little distant, a little unworldly, a little odd. And if you learn to see what’s there instead of seeing only what you expect to, you may find that you’ve known a unicorn all along.

What happens next is up to you. But at least one expert suggests that it would not be tactful to mention virgins.


...


Here's where you can find the Washington Post article, "Pearls before breakfast": http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/04/04/AR2007040401721.html









Hidden in the Kirin logo are the characters that spell out "unicorn" in the katakana script: キ (ki), り (ri) and ン (n).

Sunday, January 18, 2009

When I was fifteen and worse


19th January 2009


When I was fifteen and worse, I wrote like I was icing a chandelier, dripping crystals from the bird's nest metal to shoot light every which way.

I am older now - and less caught up with dazzle.

A candle will do for a beacon and I stumble after, fumbling wicks and tallow to draw out a single stem of flicker bloom and leaf shadow.

But these hands remember chandeliers and, sometimes, they stray.

Nothing then but to bring them back to short words, shorter sentences. And from brevity, begin again.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Argerich at 5:56


16th January 2008


Woke up starving and with music ghosting through my head.

So I woke up with a cheese sandwich, soup and this: http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=OsoSvHdcCv0

Monday, January 12, 2009

初コラム (First column of the year)


12th January 2009


Columns: too much work
to write, too much work to read.
So let’s do haiku!

A poetic form -
seventeen syllables set
in five-seven-five.

Often forgotten
kireji, the ‘cutting word’:
Haiku’s bridge or stop.

Then there’s the kigo,
signpost word to the season.
A phrase will do too.

(Haiku is…complex.
Sometimes, the rules don’t apply.
Google for details.)

When the year is fresh
A possible season word
Hatsu, which means first.

The hatsu mode
First shrine visit of the year.
Crowds in kimono.

The hatsu yume
First dream you dream in the year.
Do you recall yours?

Good luck to dream of
Mount Fuji, a hawk and for
some reason, eggplant.

The hatsu genka
First quarrel of the new year.
My hairdresser won.

‘Make it really short’
I wanted to save money
Haircuts aren’t cheap here.

‘It’ll look terrible’
My hairdresser’s persuasive
She holds sharp objects.

I forgot one thing.
You know, the verses above -
they aren’t all haiku.

Five-seven-five but
no cutting or season words -
this form’s called senryu.

Perhaps too late but
let me rewrite the first verse
for accuracy.

Columns: too much work
to write, too much work to read.
So let’s do senryu!

Poems aren’t just for
poets or those in garrets
or people who rhyme.

When you have something
to say – and you know the times –
then make a poem.

So the iambic
pentameter fills you with
Stress? Try a senryu.

Remember: if you
can count to seven, you can
try writing senryu.

(And if you can count
to 21, you can play
blackjack. Just a note.)

January’s clear
but how long will the year stay
sharp and fresh for you?

Between yesterday’s
dishes and tomorrow’s bills
the rest all a blur.

These eyes encrusted.
But the sleep sand the days leave
can be rubbed away.

Just try the new, try
a poem and see the world
For the hatsu time.




Afterword: There's a joke buried in the blackjack verse but you have to count to see it.













Auspicious door ornament for the new year, Kibune village.

Thursday, January 01, 2009

初声*


1st January 2009


The first day of the year and a man's voice woke me.

Someone outside, beyond my curtains, beyond sleep, called out to another man. 'Omedetou!' he said - the way you wish a friend a happy new year.

I fumbled for the clock behind my pillow. 8.26, it said. Omedetou.

Too early, I said and went back to sleep.




* Hatsu goe: first voice (of the year). There are a number of hatsu pairs in Japanese - hatsu yume, first dream, for instance - but first voice is not one of them.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

On reflection


31st December 2008


There was one thing I had to do before the year slipped to the other side of the mirror.

It had nothing to do with new year cards nor with parties and feasts, though I've been busy with at least two of those three.

My goodbyes were for something I would not see again till spring. And it's this:

















Every time I go, I want to move in. Not possible so I've moved it into a story. The words and people are still unwritten but whenever I go there, they stamp on the page. I can see the scribe's daughter, drinking on the verandah with one man who is trying to teach her to see another. I wake with her, looking through her eyes through the trees outside her window. The man she does not allow herself to look at is outside. His eyes are full of the arrows of the dead.

I see them not seeing most clearly when I am there.

And now it's closed for winter. But if it snows, I shall go anyway and stand outside until I am warm.


Friday, December 12, 2008

Season passes to the show


14th December 2008


More cuts, more iodine. But also more photos.

...


It’s one of the greatest shows on earth. Once a year, for a limited season and only in selected venues, trees set themselves on fire.

Tourists flood into Kyoto every autumn to catch the city-wide performances. It’s hardly a complicated plot – leaves light up in all shades of burn from yellow to red, then fall – but the more popular spots pack the crowds in until it’s standing room only.

The preparation begins weeks, no, months in advance. Tickets have to be printed and programmes designed, of course, but the real work begins in summer, when scripts are handed out and moves blocked.

But it’s not humans who direct the show. We just set the scene, do the ushering and sell tickets and refreshments (red bean soup is particularly good in the cold).

No, there’s a larger force directing – larger even than Steven Spielberg. This director cues the cast through sunlight, temperature and typhoons. If it sends, for instance, a cool and rainy summer, the trees respond with a muted, low-key performance.

On the other hand, a big difference between night and day temperatures, and lots of strong sunlight will produce a hot number. And if no typhoons come to rip off branches and spoil leaves with seawater, expect a show that will bring the house down.

Just a note about casting: not all trees can play a part in the autumn extravaganza; they have to be deciduous, which is a fancy way of saying bits – leaves, horns or teeth – fall off regularly. (Incidentally, the number of tree species which shed teeth is somewhere between 50 and -1.)

So coniferous trees – phlegmatic types like pines that stay evergreen and do nothing more dramatic than produce cones – never feature in the fall line-up. The limelight is hogged by their deciduous cousins: drama queens who spend a good part of the year on costume changes.

Chief among this lot is the maple. If you run into a bunch of maple trees, listen carefully – you may hear them calling each other darling in syrupy tones.

Trees talk all the time, whether you hear them or not, and autumn is probably the easiest time of the year to catch the conversation. Dry leaves whisper louder than green ones and when the wind whips them away, the whisper becomes a roar.

They quiet down when they fall, covering the ground in gold leaf, but when the wind whirls round again, they crackle up about you, rustling and hustling you to go see the show.

Most venues offer only matinees but some also light the trees up for evening shows. One of these takes place in Kibune, a mountain village north of the city. Once the sun goes down, visitors stream in by train and bus, the floors of both spotted with maple leaves like so many dropped flyers.

When you spill out of the bus, wood and paper lamps are waiting, lined by the road to take you to the glowing trees. It is a long, winding stage, with the river rippling through the orchestra pit that runs beside it. Even in the dark, the water never stops playing, flowing under and around the susurrus of the leaves.

They draw you on to Kibune shrine, which sits at the top of a flight of uneven stone steps. Red lanterns line both sides and they are lit, as are the amber trees arching over them.

At the shrine, a cluster of small buildings open to the mountain cold, log fires flicker but the trees burn with an unwavering light.

It is a show of strength, one last act of red defiance before grey winter upstages them.

And if you leave Kibune on rail, you’ll see the show one more time as the train goes through a maple leaf tunnel. The conductor will switch off the carriage lights and emboldened by the darkness, the trees will press forward on both sides, their arms weighed down by little seven-pointed lanterns.

It is as if the leaves know that they will fall in a matter of days but before they do, want to return all the light the year has given them.

But the passengers can only spend so much time with them before the train pulls away, speeds up, the lights come back on – and the entire carriage groans.

Behind them, the trees continue speaking their lines even though the dialogue doesn’t change much. Autumn is a simple story, after all, and everyone knows how it ends. Which may be why most of those who come to Kyoto for the show leave before the final act.

Even as they file away into buses, trains and tour coaches, winter is waiting in the wings and as the last curtain falls, it springs forward to strike the sets, the wind close on its heels. A stagehand with more enthusiasm than finesse, the wind bustles around, stripping off leaves without caring where they land.

The red, gold, orange and yellow flame through the air, smouldering out on the ground – the house lights, the house leaves come down and the theatre goes dark.

But perhaps only until the next season. If the sky feels dramatic, it will scatter white with both hands to smooth everything into an ice crystal stage. And when that happens, snowmen will stumble up to take their places.

I’m hoping it’ll be a good run.















The view from the top of the stairs leading to the main hall of Kibune shrine.